True hardwood flooring has many grain marks that are original and unique. Laminate flooring has many of the same markings and looks just like the real thing.

Hardwood flooring needs continuous maintenance. You need to keep it clean, keep things that can scratch it off of it, and you will need to protect it with coatings when needed. It is expensive to maintain! Laminate flooring is much easier to take care of. You simply need a wet mop to clean it up and while you won’t use chemicals on it, you don’t have to take care not to scratch it as much. It is much more resistant to damage.

Hardwood flooring that is laid correctly will last a lifetime. Laminate flooring will probably last just as long if not longer.

Laminate flooring is much less expensive than hardwoods that can cost you ten times as much as laminates.

Both can be stained in the colors that you want them to be. They can both be protected with special layers of protective coatings that will keep them looking beautiful and lasting a long time.

Laminate flooring to be used regularly, as with true hardwood floors, you will need to take special precautions to make sure that they are not damaged. Water can even damage many hardwoods.

When you are considering the purchase of laminates, make sure to look at the value that it offers to a home. Many love the look of hardwood and the no nonsense trouble that laminates afford. Which is your choice?

By: Sandy Baker

In order to be accurate, radiant heating must be defined as “the method of heating walls, floors or ceilings in order to transfer heat to the occupants of a room.” Radiant heating created by hot water, high voltage electrical cables, steam or low voltage energized screen or cables, etc. heats objects in a space. People, furniture, etc in the room are all heated, not the air, as in forced or hot air systems.

Also the heating element, whether it be tubes, cables, or screen are not always installed in the floor–the heating element or hot water tubes can be put in floors, walls, and even ceilings. With rising gas prices, more and more people are installing electric radiant heat rather than the traditional hydronic systems, which have boilers and pumps that are typically fueled by natural gas.

It is important to note and remember that radiant heating, radiant snow melting, radiant floor warming and radiant roof de-icing can be accomplished by several different alternative technologies each having its advantages. As a consumer or specifier it is incumbent upon you to insist that your heating consultant, supplier or installer is familiar with each of the available technologies and that he or she is equipped to help you determine which technology best suits your specific needs and desires.

By Heather Gwilliam

Heatizon Radiant Heat

All of Heatizon Systems products are proudly made in the United States of America and carry a “Made in the USA” label. In order for Heatizon to provide its customers with the highest quality products possible it closely monitors and controls the materials and manufacturing processes used.

Tuff Cable and ZMesh heating elements come with a 25 Year Warranty against material defects and like all of Heatizon Systems products they carry industry leading and precedent setting warranties.

Heatizon Systems makes products that are used for each of the following applications:
-Radiant Snow Melting off of driveways, walkways, handicap ramps, parking lots, etc. in new or existing asphalt, concrete, or pavers.
-Radiant Floor Warming under all floor coverings including hardwood, tile, and carpet.
-Radiant In-Floor Space Heating for all residential and commercial projects.
-Radiant Roof Snow and Ice Melt designed to eliminate ice dams and icicles and manage snow loads under all types of roofing materials including metal.

By Steven D. Bench
Managing Member, Heatizon Systems

For additional information on Heatizon Systems products please visit www.heatizon.com

The following advice isn’t intended for site-finished hardwood floors, which shouldn’t be washed, scrubbed or polished. Such surfaces should need only an occasional spot cleaning in addition to regular dusting or sweeping.

Begin by removing the residue of past cleaning and polishing. Choose a no-rinse floor cleaner, mop the product onto the floor (following label instructions), and rinse clean, picking up the rinse water with a clean mop. You may want to clean up dirt and residue along edges and in corners by hand. Allow the floor to dry, then inspect it closely; repeat the cleaning process until the floor is clean.

Floor finishes add a protective sealant to the floor’s surface and, like wax for floors and cars, will keep dirt off the floor surface and speed future cleanings. Choose a product suitable for the type of floor you have, and follow label directions when applying the finish.

Reference: Don Aslett in The Cleaning Encyclopedia: Your A to Z Illustrated Guide to Cleaning Like the Pros.

Courtesy of: The Housekeeping Channel.

Different species of wood flooring will experience color changes at different rates. In general, more-common species such as oak and hickory will experience minimal color change over time, while less-common species, like American cherry and Brazilian cherry will show more color change over time. These changes are natural, but can be minimized with a little prevention.

Two factors influence color changes in wood floors: sun exposure and the finish that is applied to the floor. Over time, prolonged sun exposure will cause wood floors to change color. Think about how skin reacts when exposed to sunlight. Wood reacts in much the same way, and homeowners can minimize this effect by periodically moving rugs and furniture to limit that exposure.

The second factor that can cause wood floors to change color over time is the finish used. Oil-modified finishes will amber over time, giving the floor a slightly yellow appearance. In contrast, water-based finishes generally will remain clear over time, minimizing long-term color changes.

Contact Information:
Director of Communications
National Wood Flooring Association
636-519-9663
anitah@nwfa.org

Source: WoodFloors.org – NWFA

Plan which Tile

This step is often underestimated and sometimes even forgotten (can you believe it?). Planning your ceramic tile installation from A to Z is probably one of the most important steps for a smooth, easy going and problem free bathroom tile installation.

Some things to take in account are;

” Suitability of the tile
” Pattern /colour of the tile
” Size of the tile
” Size of the area to be tiled. (This is important data that will be vital to know how much tile, grout, etc, you have to buy)
” Adhesive, mortar or grout to suit your needs

Not all ceramic tile installations are the same, different tiling installations may require different mortar or grout. DO NOT feel shy about asking the suppliers for advice or help in calculating how much you need. They will gladly help you, as they are likely to make a sale.

Shop around if you want to save

This isn’t as difficult as the first step, however when the budget is tight it can be tricky to find the right tile for the ceramic tile installation you want. You are going to have to make some compromises and so don’t get carried away by the beauty of some of the ceramic tiles. Prices can vary a lot between different tiles, so some end up rather expensive for only a few square metres. Always shop around, it has never been easier. Just sit in front of the computer and use the Internet. Use local directories to find the suppliers close to you and pay them a visit.

Before making your final decision always check the chosen tile under different lights as the results can be surprisingly different.

Prepare the surface

Prepare the surface for a long lasting job before laying the ceramic tiles. The surface to be tiled (floor, wall or any other) will often need to be prepared, this can include work like filling, leveling, smoothing, priming and sometimes water proofing.

The right preparation will be directly affect the lifespan of the ceramic tile installation. Unless you want to be tiling again soon, you want to get this right from the start.

This is probably the most important point to ensure a long lasting tiling job. Don’t rush it.

Laying the ceramic tiles safely

The technique of laying ceramic tiles is not especially difficult. It only takes a little bit of practice before anyone can easily master it. Clearing the room to be tiled before starting will help you to do the job safer and easier. Don’t forget to wear your safety goggles when cutting or chipping tiles.

Laying ceramic tiles can also be a bit messy, if you don’t want dust all over the house we suggest sealing the room you want to tile whenever possible. A large piece of plastic tacked to the door frame will do the job quite well.

Try not to allow any adhesive to get on your skin and never forget to read the manufacturers directions before even opening the tin. If some ends up on you, just clean it with water as soon as possible. Even though tile adhesives aren’t usually abrasive, if you leave it for some time it may cause an allergic reaction.

Use a spirit level to help you with the depth & level of the tiles and spacers to maintain an even distance between them.

The finishing touches

Once the tile adhesive or mortar has cured (dried) and the tiles are firm and even, you can start with the finishing touches.

You’ll have to fill the spaces between tiles with grout making sure you don’t leave any gaps as these cause damp problems, in a shower for example.

The technique is very simple, use a rubber faced trowel to spread the grout and a cotton cloth to clean the excess grout from the tiles afterwards.

There are many different types of grouts; you’ll have to choose the right one depending on the surface and chosen tile.

Now that you have your ceramic tiles laid down, you only need to take care of them, usually manufacturers provide information on taking care of their tiles and only minimal effort is required. Most household cleaning products will do the job well, if some particular stain is stubborn, there are many commercial stain removers, just make sure you use the right product for the right tile.

You are now closer to discovering how satisfying it can be handling a tile installation yourself; just follow these 5 steps to get the best result.

By: Manuel Kupka

About the Author: Learn how to Tile a Bathroom YourSelf & Profit from insider tips that will help you complete secure and reliable tiling in 5-easy steps. Get the FREE report “27 Insider Tiling Tips you want to know” , visit us at http://www.bathroom-tile-installation.com

The carpet industry in the United States began in 1791 when William Sprague started the first woven carpet mill in Philadelphia. Others opened during the early 1800s in New England. Included in that area was Beattie Manufacturing Company in Little Falls, New Jersey, a company that operated until 1979.

In 1839, Erastus Bigelow permanently reshaped the industry with the invention of the power loom for weaving carpets. Bigelow’s loom, which doubled carpet production the first year after its creation and tripled it by 1850, is now part of the Smithsonian Institution’s collections. He continued to devote his life to innovation — 35 separate patents were issued to him between 1839 and 1876. Bigelow introduced the first broadloom carpet in 1877.

The power loom with Jacquard mechanism was developed in 1849, and Brussels carpet was first manufactured by the Clinton Company of Massachusetts. The Brussels loom was slightly modified, making possible the manufacture of Wilton carpet. Later, the Hartford Carpet Company joined with Clinton Company to become Bigelow Carpet Company.

In 1878, four Shuttleworth brothers brought 14 looms from England and established their manufacturing plant in Amsterdam, New York. In 1905, the company introduced a new carpet, Karnak Wilton. Its instant success was phenomenal. Flooded with orders, a new building had to be constructed to exclusively handle Karnak production. Weavers worked four and five years without changing either the color or pattern on their looms.

Alexander Smith started his carpet manufacturing plant in 1845 in West Farms, New York. An American, Halcyon Skinner, had perfected the power loom for making Royal Axminster in 1876. He and Alexander Smith combined, forming a very successful carpet company. Alexander Smith was elected to Congress in 1878, but died on the evening of election day. Sixteen hundred people were employed at his factory at the time of his death. Alexander Smith & Sons continued. During World War I, the carpet looms were converted to make tent duck and navy blankets. In 1929 Alexander Smith & Sons was the largest manufacturer of carpets and rugs in the world.

Simulating the “Oriental” Rug

Industrialist/retailer Marshall Field had a traditional Axminster weaving loom modified to create what no one else had ever created — a machine-made rug woven through the back, just like a handmade Oriental, featuring intricate designs and virtually unlimited color variety. Karastan’s rug mill was established in 1926, and introduced the first Karastan rugs to the public in 1928.

Alexander Smith, Bigelow, and Karastan are companies continuing today as divisions of Mohawk Industries, headquartered in Georgia.

There are many manufacturers today producing both simulations of antique designs and updated “oriental” type rugs by both weaving and tufting processes.

The Tufted Carpet Industry

Born in the U. S. A. – the Pride of Georgia

Through the late 1800s, Dalton, Georgia, struggled with cotton mills and steel manufacturing works to forge a small town in the north Georgia hills. Northwest Georgia, with its hard-packed clay, poor farmland, and rolling hills was among the last areas of Georgia settled. Rich in a heritage of Cherokee Indians and Civil War battles, that northern corner of the state was rugged and spawned people who were independent and self-sufficient. Those were the people who brought forth and nurtured the tufted textile industry. The industry’s infancy was in Dalton; it has gone through intense growth in Dalton; and it has now matured in and around Dalton. The carpet industry’s impact is great on this region, this state, and the nation; and the story of its growth is unique.

The Beginnings

The industry began in a simple way, around the turn of the century. A young, Dalton woman, Catherine Evans Whitener, recreated a bedspread in a hand-crafted pattern she had seen, for a wedding gift. Copying a quilt pattern, she sewed thick cotton yarns with a running stitch into unbleached muslin, clipped the ends of the yarn so they would fluff out, and finally, washed the spread in hot water to hold the yarns in by shrinking the fabric. Interest grew in young Catherine’s bedspreads, and in 1900, she made the first sale of a spread for $2.50. Demand became so great for the spreads that by the 1930s, local women, who were real entrepreneurs, had “haulers,” who would take the stamped sheeting and yarns to front porch workers. Often, entire families worked to hand tuft the spreads for 10 to 25 cents per spread. The local term for the sewing process was “turfin” for the nearly 10,000 area cottage tufters — men, women, and children. Bedspread income was instrumental in helping many area families survive the depression.

As an example of the spirit of these early entrepreneurial women, Mrs. J. T. Bates stated that she simply “shipped 15 spreads to John Wannamaker’s department store in New York. On a piece of plain tablet paper I made out a bill for $98.15 and put it in with the spreads. Although there had been no previous contact whatsoever with the store, Wannamakers sent us a check for $98.15.” Chenille bedspreads became amazingly popular all over the country and provided a new name for Dalton: The Bedspread Capital of the World.

Mechanization – the 1930s

Buyer competition, which tended to lower the prices, the change in the minimum wage laws, and development of machine-produced spreads soon made the hand-crafted spreads too expensive. Gradually the industry began to pull the workers from surrounding hillsides and small towns into mills in Dalton, beginning the rapid growth of the mechanized tufting industry.

In the 1930s, as a result of the demand for more bedspreads, the first mechanized tufting machine, attributed to Glen Looper Foundry of Dalton, was developed. Looper modified the single needle commercial Singer so that it would tuft the thick yarn into unbleached muslin without tearing the fabric and an attached knife would cut the loop. Machines quickly developed into four, then eight, twenty-four, and more needles to make the parallel rows of tufting known as “chenille.” By 1941, all but about one percent of tufted bedspreads were machine made. Mats and rugs were created with the same process, using cotton yarns and fabric. Volume increased rapidly after World War II, because people were hungry for color and beauty. To show the extent of growth, 30,000 bales of cotton were consumed in 1946 by the industry. By 1950, approximately 500,000 bales were used, and the industry was the third largest consumer of cotton grown in Georgia in 1952.

Sales were created by correspondence or by taking spreads to department stores, but by far the most famous and enjoyable way to buy a spread was on “Bedspread Alley,” U. S. Highway 41 between Dalton and Cartersville. This stretch of the major north-south highway got its nickname because of the bedspreads the tufters hung on clotheslines to dry in the breeze and sun.

The salesmen and tourists enjoyed seeing the colorful, gaudy spreads and enjoyed the novelty of buying them “off the line.” The most popular pattern to the travelers, outselling all others 12 to 1 was the Peacock — feathered birds facing each other and spreading tails over the breadth of the spread. This “Bedspread Alley” phenomenon lasted into the ?70s, and even now a few spreads can be seen on lines just south of Dalton.

As the number of tufted products produced annually went into the millions, the job of supplying the industry became equally important. Yarn, sheeting, duck mills, and agents were established in the area, with their entire output going to the industry; and larger mills elsewhere vied for the growing business. Machine shops were established to manufacture the thousands of single and multi-needle machines needed, as well as to design improvements aimed at making even more beautiful and better spreads, bathroom sets, robes, beach wear, and rugs. Dye plants for yarn were built. Laundries were erected for finishing the spreads. Printing shops were established to supply the millions of tags and labels needed. Box factories turned out cartons for shipping. Moving these spreads to market was big volume for rail and motor freight lines.

Machinery was developed for making chenille rugs and was widened, creating larger rugs and broadloom carpet. At the same time, machinery was changing, developments of new fibers accelerated the growth of broadloom carpet.

Synthetic Fibers are Introduced

Until about 1954, cotton was virtually the only fiber used in tufted products. Wool and manmade fibers — polyester, nylon, rayon, and acrylics — were gradually introduced by textile men in Dalton. Nylon was first introduced in 1947 and grew steadily to dominate the market. Polyester was first used in 1965 and was followed soon by polypropylene (olefin). Most manufacturers will agree that the single most important development in the industry was the introduction of bulk continuous filament nylon yarns. These yarns provided a luxurious quality, durable carpet, similar to wool, that was more economical to produce. Therefore, a durable, luxury product was offered to the consumer for less money.

In 1950, only ten percent of all carpet and rug products were tufted, and ninety percent were woven. However, about 1950, it was as if someone had opened a magic trunk. Out of that trunk came man-made fibers, new spinning techniques, new dye equipment, printing processes, tufting equipment, and backing for different end uses. Today, tufted products are more than 90 percent of the total, followed by less than 2 percent that are woven, and 6.7 percent for all other methods, such as knitted, braided, hooked, or needlepunched. By 1951, the tufting industry was a $133 million per year business made up primarily of bedspreads, carpet, and rugs, with carpet accounting for $19 million. The industry broke the billion dollar mark in 1963. Through the years, the Dalton area has continued to be the center of the tufted carpet industry, and today, the area produces more than 70 percent of the total output of the world-wide industry of over $9 billion. Dalton is now known as the “Carpet Capital of the World.”

Courtesy The Carpet and Rug Institute

There have been many tragic ceramic floor tile installation disasters by using the wrong membranes or none at all. If the membranes and/or bonding mortars are not compatible your bond will be lost and problems will occur.

With a floor tile installation make sure your membranes meet current ANSI standards and that manufacturers instructions are followed properly.

With floor tile installations, membranes are used for a variety of reasons, each having a specific purpose, such as moisture vapor emission membranes, cork underlay, peel and stick membranes and liquid or trowel applied membranes.

A load bearing, bonded, uncoupling membrane is also a full coverage membrane, but it’s made of thicker material than the anti-fracture membrane. The air cavities that are pressed into its surface allow for lateral movement.

A cleavage membrane is not bonded to the concrete. The function of this membrane is to separate the tile assembly from the concrete and isolate the wire-reinforced mortar bed and the ceramic floor tile installation from any instability in the wood or concrete sub-floor.

A crack isolation membrane is bonded to the sub-floor to cover existing shrinkage cracks and must cover three times the width of the floor tile used, with a minimum width of 6 inches.

An anti-fracture membrane is also bonded to the sub-floor, but this membrane needs to fully cover the sub-floor in order to protect against shrinkage, moisture and expansion and/or contraction of the concrete.

With a radiant heat system a moisture barrier is important in controlling moisture and stopping liquid from passing through. Always consider all of the options, because the improper use of a membrane may trap moisture and cause condensation.

Just remember that when you’re doing a ceramic floor tile installation make sure that you use the correct membrane especially if you have in-floor radiant heating otherwise you could end up with cracked tile and grout and an expensive repair bill.

By: Larry B Lang

About the Author: Larry Lang is the founder of Radiant Heating Disasters which specializes in consulting of hydronic in-floor radiant heating systems. Larry is also author of Radiant Heat – What You NEED to Know BEFORE You Sign That Contract. Copyright 2006 Larry Lang All rights Reservered Lang Enterprises Inc. http://www.radiantheatingdisasters.com

Gone are the wimpy white floors that tore or dented at the slightest insult; floors that eventually turned yellow, were difficult to install, and failed miserably whenever they tried to imitate their higher-priced ceramic, wood, or slate cousins.

These days, vinyl floors are so durable that even the lowest price points come with at least 10-year warranties. They’re also so realistic that consumers sometimes have to get down on their hands and knees to tell it’s a vinyl floor.

“If vinyl were introduced today as a brand-new category, it would be the hottest thing ever because it’s so good;’ says Marl< Brown, director of marketing for Tarkett Residential. “It has an economical price point and a high value.”

Nonetheless, Brown notes, “vinyl is still the polyester of its genre. It’s not generally viewed as the hot aspirational product.” That poses a challenge for the industry, he and others contend.

To meet that challenge, manufacturers are scrambling to appeal to a broad spectrum of customers–from first-time home buyers looking for value, to hip urbanites in search of a unique look, to baby boomers who need something soft to cushion aging joints and backs.

For the most part, it seems, they’re succeeding. “The vinyl market has come a long way;’ says Kelly Frank, design center manager at production builder D.R. Horton in Dallas. “It really is more upscale now.”

NATURALS DOMINATE

The hottest trend in vinyl mimics that in many other building product categories the natural look. “It started in 1997 and it’s still going strong,” says Joe Amato, vice president of styling for Mannington Resilient Floors. “The customer who buys vinyl today either for performance, ease of maintenance, or cost, wants a product that looks as natural as possible.”

These days, vinyl delivers just that, say manufacturers and designers.

“Whether you’re looking at a slate, travertine, quartz, or stone pattern, we’re trying to capture the detail you’d find in that natural material,” Amato says.

That’s led to a major shift in vinyl surface texture and gloss. Forget the high-shine, plastic-looking floor of yesterday; today’s vinyl is apt to have a subtle surface texture as well as a natural feel.

At Mannington, for instance, the company’s NatureForm technology creates a surface texture on the wear layer, notes Amato, before a low-luster satin urethane topcoat is applied.

The focus on natural may have gone a bit too far, however. “Most of what we have today is all stone patterns,” says Henry Eckhart III, president of Design Floors, a retail outlet in Easton, Pa. “I think manufacturers need to go back to some other designs with more flavor.”

The manufacturers are getting the message. For instance, Mannington’s New Naturals line mimics softer, more casual materials like leather, sisal, and cork. Meanwhile, Mannington’s Artisan collection combines the nostalgia and tradition of woven textiles, which represents a new trend that Amato calls “handcrafted.”

“Consumers are valuing objects that suggest an artist’s hand,” he says.

At Armstrong Flooring, the trend is reflected in a move back to traditional florals and decoratives, only with a more modern interpretation, says vice president of resilient products Allen Cubell. “Today you may have a ceramic-looking floor with a very faint flower running through it,” he explains.

On the far end of the spectrum is a shift to a more avant-garde design. “There’s an opportunity to be a bit more daring in design,” says Tarkett’s Brown. “People are using the floor as a design element.”

To meet that need, Tarkett offers grout-free patterns that mimic concrete or linoleum, while Armstrong introduced Urban Settings, a fashion-forward line that offers everything from hip and chic to dreamy and whimsical designs.

There’s also a movement toward brighter colors, a trend Brown attributes to the country’s growing Hispanic population. “Deeper reds, vibrant yellows … you don’t necessarily see those colors in stone in the real world, so it allows us to create a canvas effect on the floor,” he says.

Frank agrees. “While one type of buyer wants to emulate the look of ceramic tile at a lower price point, the other buyer is really looking for the ease of maintenance of vinyl and they want to have some fun.” That means deeper, darker colors pushing out traditional beige.

QUALITY IS KEY

In addition to enhanced design, resilient flooring manufacturers are improving the quality of their much-maligned product. “What I’ve seen from the industry over the past few years is a tremendous proliferation of performance attributes,” says Brown. “All the major vinyl manufacturers make a really, really durable, high-performing, relatively easy-to-maintain floor.”

Vinyl flooring can be coated with Teflon, imbued with antibacterial materials, covered in scratch- and stain-resistant urethanes, and backed with rubber matting that comes with a lifetime warranty against staining.

Most important, says Brown, is that even lower-priced floors offer quality unheard of just five years ago. That’s critical so first-time home buyers aren’t turned off by the product forever.

“We recognized that if we don’t provide really good performance at every price point, we’re going to get penalized,” he says.

And it’s paying off. The 2004 Vinyl Flooring Market Study, conducted by the market research department of BNP Media and published by the trade magazine National Floor Trends, found customer complaints dropped for vinyl floors compared to other flooring types, with customer perceptions of quality and durability increasing since 2003.

Vinyl flooring manufacturers are optimistic about the future, particularly given the aging population. “A lot of older people are concerned about the temperature and hardness of ceramic tile,” says Frank. “As they get older, their legs can’t stand on it. Vinyl is a good alternative for them.”

Busier, more hectic lifestyles also make vinyl more appealing, says Martell. “We need materials that are long lasting and easy to handle and maintain, so vinyl will remain important for years to come.”

Tarkett Residential. From the new Fresh Start FiberFloor collection. Artisan Cork Natural vinyl flooring is covered by a five-year warranty for rips, tears, gouges, discoloration, manufacturing defects, and other potential issues. The Fresh Stare collection was developed to appeal to consumers, retailers, builders/remodelers, and property managers. It doesn’t require adhesives for installation, the maker says, 800-367-8275. www.tarkett.com. Circle 360.

Armstrong. New for 2005, all Urban Setting products are ToughGuard floors, featuring a patented CleanSweep no-wax wear surface and a 15-year limited warranty. The floors are available in 12-foot-wide sheets only. 717-396-4664. www. armstrong.com. Circle 361.

Nafco by Tarkett. The Parchment pattern is part of the PermaStone modular collection. Seven tiles comprise one modular unit: two 16-inch-by-16-inch tiles, three 8-inch-by-8-inch tiles, and two 8-inch-by-16-inch tiles, all of which are available as identical tile pieces packaged in a single carton. Parchment comes in three colors (glacier, Baltic, and earth). 256-218-5253. www.nafco.com Circle 363.

Amtico. The Frosted Jewel finish is smooth to the touch, but textured below the surface to give a uniquely tactile 3-D effect, the firm says. The four-faceted design reflects light and shade in a way that changes with a room’s light, the maker contends. The product is available in 12-inch-by-12-inch tiles in black pearl, white opal, light jade, pale sapphire, and aquamarine. 404267-1900. www.amtico.com. Circle 362.

Metroflor. This heavy-duty solid vinyl tile has a tough scratch- and stain-resistant ceramic-type finish that is less likely to chip or crack than ceramic tile, the maker says. Backed by a lifetime warranty, Solidity is 1/6 inch :hick and has the high-fashion look of large-format 16-inch-by-16-inch ceramic and stone tiles. It is available in four styles: granite, slate, travertine, and tumbled marble. 800-927-9324. www.metroflor.com. Circle 364.

Liz Claiborne Fleering. The Serenity line, shown here in the Fresh Meadow pattern, is one of five color-coordinated lines offered by the firm and distributed exclusively through Carpet One showrooms. Fresh Meadow vinyl flooring is available in three colors: sesame, putty, and parfait. Other lines include Relaxed, Elegance, Cosmopolitan, and Confidence. 800-227q381. www.liz claiborneflooring.com. Circle 365.

Mannington Mills. Saratoga, part of the Ceramica collection, reflects the rich and inviting look of leather set in a 9-inch the composition. It comes with a Teflon surface protector; a durable stain and soil repellent that keeps floors looking new longer, Saratoga is available in rawhide (shown) or nude. 856-935-3000. www.mannington.com, Circle 366.

Congoleum. DuraStone vinyl flooring is a stylish, high-quality, yet affordable, product. It has extraordinary durability and is easy to maintain, the manufacturer says. DuraStone is featured in an upscale 16-inch-by-16-inch designer tile size with extra-thick .160-inch construction. The Palisade design is available in whitewash, roseberry, peach stone, raintree, silver pine, and sandstone. 609-584-3000. www.congoleum.com. Circle 367.

Stainmaster. The S3080 series vinyl flooring offers a beautifully textured rustic slate look with multiple hues and colors blended to provide a warm, casual feel, the firm says. It’s available in woodland green, mineral blue, summit’s peak, and mountain plateau. 800-438-7668. www. stainmaster.com. Circle 368.

Domco. Merletto is pare of the Elite line and, at 110 mils, is the thickest vinyl flooring available, claims the maker. Merletto features a 3-inch square that recreates the handmade look of Old World tiles. Shown here in autumn brown, the line also comes in several other colors. 800-367-8275. www.domco.com Circle 369.

RELATED ARTICLE: Fiber fortified.

One of the hottest new flooring products is fiberglass-reinforced vinyl with PVC backing.

“It’s fully glueless, no adhesives are needed whatsoever, and it can be installed on grade, below grade, in kitchens, basements, anywhere you would install any type of vinyl floor,” says Stephan Guindon, vice president of sales and marketing at Domco Floors.

Plus, Guindon notes, it can be installed on a less-than-perfect subfloor, an important consideration for builders.

It’s particularly good for basements. “If the basement floods, you just roll up the part of the floor that got wet and let it dry, then lay it back down,” explains Mark Brown, director of marketing for Tarkett Residential.

Plus, Brown adds: “It’s thicker, more cushioned than vinyl, so you’re able to combine a lot of the underfoot qualities of carpeting.”

Still, Armstrong Flooring vice president Allen Cubell doesn’t see fiberglass-reinforced flooring as a big seller with builders. It’s not as durable as traditional vinyl, he says, making it difficult to continue construction of a room once the floor is laid. That’s why Armstrong is positioning its fiberglass-backed line as a do-it-yourself floor, and sells it through home centers.–D.G.

COPYRIGHT 2005 Hanley-Wood, Inc. COPYRIGHT 2005 Gale Group

Be aware that large pieces of sand or rock can cause visible scratching. These are usually easy to catch by having floor mats and foot brushes at outside doorway entrances. Dirt which gets pass the mats and brushes can cause invisible scratching that eventually leads to dullness. So, vacuum and mop regularly to keep grit off the floor. For dry cleaning, vacuuming is usually sufficient. Microfiber pads are also quite effective and, if available, lets you avoid involving fluids. Never clean with abrasives, scouring powder or steel wool.

Damp clean laminate flooring using a vinegar or ammonia-based solution. For example, you can pour 1/4 cup of vinegar into a 30 to 32 ounce empty spray bottle filled with plain water for a quick solution. Then, dampen a terry mop or a Swiffer with water and mop, spraying the floor as you go along. When damp mopping, avoiding standing fluids so you do not saturate the floor. Wipe immediately! Other possible cleaning fluids that have been suggested include:

- vinegar, rubbing alcohol, and water (equal parts)
- 1/3 white vinegar, 1/3 rubbing alcohol, 1/3 water, and 3 drops dishwashing liquid (1 quart total)
- Swiffer WetJet wood floor cleaner
- Windex

Here are some tips on spot cleaning: To remove oil, paint, permanent marker, tar, rubber heel marks, use a neutral cleaner on a clean light colored cloth. If needed, use alcohol or a nail polish remover containing acetone. To remove blood, fruit juice, wine, beer, soda pop, pasta sauce, use warm water. If needed use a neutral cleaner on a light colored cloth. To remove candle wax or chewing gum, first harden with ice and then scrape very gently. Wipe the rest with warm water on a clean light colored cloth.

If your laminate is scratched, see if you can buy a touch up stick from your manufacturer. The area you repair will look, hold up to traffic and wear just like the rest of the laminate floor.

In case of more severe damage, which is unlikely to take place in most of the homes, a trained professional can be called to replace a plank. The new plank should be almost indistinguishable from the rest, if done properly.

By: E. Timothy Uy

About the Author: Laminate flooring enthusiasts unite! Installation, maintenance, selection, e.g., Harmonics, Pergo, Shaw, Mannington – you name it, we are talking about it. Join us at http://laminateflooring.oncloud8.com